Life is so good here! We are scoring perfect waves and surfing by ourselfs every day. Yesterday we scored some really fun waves again at the same right we surfed the first day, we also surfed another fun left. Today we went to a left an hour boatdrive from the resort the most beautifull setup i’ve ever seen and there were really fun waves, and again..No one else out. First we surfed a fun left which was good to make some turns, but 300m more south there was a hollow left that was bigger. After having some luch me and Olli paddeld over to that left and it was amaizing, we both had some really sick barrels, Olli got stucked in a cave after a wipeout which was pretty scary! I defently scored my best barrels of the trip so far! After 40min Sarah and Marlon joined us, how good is that..surfing perfect waves with 4people out!? The other guys were ripping the left we all surfed in the morning. Than the tide started coming in and it got a bit more inconcistent but every now and than there were still really good ones coming in!
I’m so stoked right now after the first 3days. It looks like the next couple of days it will get a bit smaller but there is a fresh swell on the way for the end of the trip!!!!
Here we are… In paradise! Today was just one of the best days of the year and it was just the first day of the trip, Epic!
But I’m gonna start with the beginning. So we started traveling on Friday in Amsterdam. We went from Amsterdam to Jakarta and we all should stay one night in Jakarta but Jeroen asked me if I was fine with the plan to try to put Jatyr and me on an erlier flight from Jakarta to Padang, For me no problem so once in Jakarta we went straight to the Domestic terminal. We arrived at 5.30PM and the flight to Padang was leaving at 7PM. We didn’t had any Tickets jet so we really needed to hurry up, we arrived at the domestic terminal at 6.35PM so I thought there was no way we were still gonna make it BUT… We are in Indonesia… We booked the flights 25minutes before departure and started running to the gate! The only thing we forgot about is that we needed to pay airport tax so we arrived there and realized that we didn’t had any money with us, so I started running outside the airport but the ATM wasn’t working! I needed to run to another ATM wich was working. So by that time it was allready 6.55PM. Me and Jatyr started running like two crazy dogs and arrived by the gate were they told us our flight was delayed by one hour… All that stress (If you can call that stress) for nothing!! So we made the flight and ended up flying in (Indonesian) Bisness class wich was really funny!
Than we took of the flight from Padang to the Telo’s this morning wich was like a 35min flight in a really old airplane , but the airplane did a great job!
Once on the Telo’s we needed to take a speedboat for about 40min before arriving on the resort. The resort is crazy!
We went straight for a surf on a left close to the ressort as we couldn’t go far away cause we were waiting for the whole group to arrive. The left looked fun from the land but once we paddeld out we saw that is was crazy, Dry, dry barrels and no one out. We bouth had one really sick barrel wich made our first session really good, I ended up hitting the reef on my last wave so I have my first souvenir of this trip.. but the wave was so good that it was allright!
Than the whole group arrived and we went for another surf, the waves were just PERFECT! Righthand barrels all way long, everybody was just getting barrel after barrel, it was amaizing! It was quite shallow aswell and in the beginning I ended up a couple of times on the rocks after going over the falls in those backhand barrels, I spended more time under water than above till Marlon gave me some good advice and from than on I started to make almost every barrel I took.
It was just an amaizing day of surfing and everybody is Super stoked after this first day of the trip, waves like this you cant surf every day so only smiling faces!
Jatyr claimed that this afternoon were probably the best waves he ever surfed!
Ok, now its time to sleep as I’m soooo tired after this trip and straight in to a full day of surfing! Tomorrow we wake up at 5.20AM to hopefully catch some sick waves again!
Greetz from PARADISE!
Ps; Internet is not really working well so maybe it wont be possible to update the blog daily…
After being in Belgium for 4 days I’m (almost) ready to go on the next trip! As most of you probably know from my previous post we are going to the Telo Islands. We are going with the full Protest team (Yannick, Marlon, Melvin, Jatyr, Sarah, Oli and myself) so it will be another cool trip with hopefully perfect waves. But before being in paradise we need to travel quite a lot. Tonight our trip starts in Schiphol (Amsterdam) and from there on we go to Jakarta were we will sleep one night before leaving the next morning at 4AM from Jakarta to Padang (sumatra), once in Padang a really small airplane (those ones you dont want to be in, especially in Indonesia!!!!) will bring us to the Telo Islands but than we still need to take a boat to the place we have to be, normaly we should arrive there by sunday afternoon…
I will update the blog daily, so if you want to know whats happening on the island come back and have a look!
After almost two weeks in Portugal I’m back in France now. I had a really nice time in Portugal with some really good waves! So, the contest didn’t went really well for me, its really fustrading doing shit in every contest this year, I dont feel that I’m surfing bad but its like I just cant find waves in my heats.. I would be allrright loosing after surfing a good heat by myself but thats not happening, I lost needing a 4.5 or something which in those conditions was baselicly like one good turn and one small one to finish but I’ve got nothing. The only good thing was that I didn’t gave up and I really was thinking I would find a wave untill it was over. Loosing sucks but I’m over it allready and looking forwards again!
After the contest I stayed there for two more days before driving down to France again. I’m staying in the NikeHouse here in Hossegor for a couple of days, than I will drive back to Belgium were I will spend a couple of days before going to Indo on the 23th of july! Its gonna be sick, we are going to the Telo Islands which is in between Mentawai and Nias I think, so that sounds really good!
Here in France there are some fun waves for the moment an there is a massive swell coming on thursday so hopefully we will score some sick waves over the next couple of days!
Ok, Its time to take a shower now cause we had a sick party last night and I still need to wash my hair cause its smelling like beer (even after a surf)…!?!?!?
I will keep the blog updated over the next days!
2.9 ride in my heat…
Expression session action
Life is good here in Algarve! For the first time in 5years coming here for the contest I’m scoring perfect waves! So stoked, and the best thing is that its so uncrowded here. we surf every day by ourselfs, I dont know many places in Europe were you can do that in summertime!
So the last couple of days we’ve been surfing so much, and surfing every day with Marlon, Yannick, Rowan, Melvin, Freddie… Is so good to push your surfing. I keep my eyes open on every wave I see the guys take to look what they do and what I need to do better. The contest starts tomorrow so last couple of days has been a really good training for me! If any of you is planning to bet online on the contest like on Unibet or whatever and you still dont really know on who to put your money I should say go for Marlon, he is surfing so good !!
I really hope to do better in this comp than I did in in the Vendee but I will just try to have fun, and make sure I’m surfing good instead of thinking what the other guys are doing. I really have to change many things cause everything I did before in heats didn’t really worked out.. So I will try my best to surf good tomorrow!
Wish me luck and stay tuned for more!
Here I am again, I’ve just spend a week in France. I stayed in Moliets at surfandbeachcamps and had some really fun waves right in front of the camp every day!
I surfed mostly in Moliets as there were some fun sandbars without crowds. The one and only session we filmed, was definitely the worst session of the week..(Why do we always film when waves are shit??) It were the best closeouts I surfed in a while.
Yesterday afternoon I left Moliets and started the trip to Portugal. We made a stop in Salamanca for the night and that’s were I am at this moment. After watching Spain-Portugal (Stoked Spain won it!!) yesterdaynight I’m ready to drive down to the South of Portugal today and start training for the QS there which starts the 8th of July.